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Backpacking 101Packing a backpack seems like a simple task, but are you really packing correctly and including the things that you should? If you plan to take a backpacking trip there are certain things to think about like the length of your trip, the weather etc. The information about your trip will then help you know what you need and how much you need to pack. Aside from understanding what you need, how much you need and how to pack everything into your backpack. Learning and understanding what items are of the upmost importance could in fact save your life if you find yourself in a sticky situation.Backpacker's Basics
Backpacker's Essentials
Ski Accessories
Clothing
Group Equipment
 Winter Camp Equipment
How to Pack Start with your sleeping bag in the bottom for a solid foundation. Put the heaviest items like your clothing, food, and cooking gear in the main compartment, keeping the weight close to your back, nearest your center of gravity. For men, this is higher, and for women it tends to be lower, towards the small of the back. Top off your pack with lighter items like your tent, maps or guides and anything you may need quickly at any particular moment like cameras, or chap stick etc. If you are unsure if everything is packed correctly try it on and walk a few steps around and see how it feels. Remember that the heaviest part of your pack should be towards the center or small of your back. Back to Top Binoculars 101 Binoculars (also known as Field glasses) are optical devices that contain dual mirror-symmetrical telescopes mounted together in order for the user to use both eyes when viewing distant objects. Binocular lenses are aligned to point accurately in the same direction, many binoculars are designed to be held by two hands but there are much larger models as well. Binoculars give the user a three dimensional view; the two views contain a slightly different viewpoint to each of the viewer's eye, thus producing a merged view with depth perception. there are two types of binoculars that are used today; Roof Binoculars and Porro Binoculars. you will find many different sizes and styles of binoculars. The most important thing to look for in a set of binoculars is that; it should feel good in your hands and be able to get a clear/crisp image. Types of Binoculars Roof BinocularsRoof binoculars contain what is known as a roof prism, these binocular models are generally smaller in size than porro style binoculars and are typified by straight barrels. Roof prism models are lighter weight than porro prism binoculars yet maintain excellent image quality. Roof prisms usually have a more sleek design than parro prisms but have a reduced brightness compared to the parro. These binoculars must go through a more strict alignment of the optical elements which requires the elements to be a fixed style. This means that they normally do not need to be re-aligned. Porro Binoculars Porro binoculars contain what is known as a parro prism, these models are a more traditional style binocular. Porro prism binoculars are easily identified by the shape of the barrels, which have the objective lens offset from the ocular lens. Parro prisms produce a brighter image versus the roof prism, but the prisms may need to be re-aligned occasionally. Binocular SizesCompact Compact binoculars offer the advantages of being smaller and lighter. They are perfect for those who are generally on foot for long periods of time and need to trim weight from their load. They usually fit into pockets for easy accessibility and quick use. However, they offer limited light transmission and steadiness in the larger powers. Usually, objective lenses in these compacts are in the 20-30 mm range. Mid Size A Mid size binocular offers a good mix of light transmission and steadiness, but is also easy to handle and fairly lightweight is a mid size. These binoculars are great for all around use in most conditions. Objective sizes in mid size binoculars typically range from 30-40 mm. These days, many features of full size binoculars can be found in mid size binoculars, a plus when weight is critical. Full Size Full size binoculars are the best for gathering light because of their larger objective lenses, which are usually over 40 mm. They also offer broader fields of view and are easier to steady. The trade off is often in the size and weight. Larger and heavier, they are ideal for those who don't mind carrying a few extra ounces to get a better view. Power and ViewingPower and Objective Size, Zoom Options Optics are described by two numbers separated by an "X." The first number is the magnification (8X) or how many times larger an object will appear when viewed through the optic. An 8X, or 8 power optic will make an object appear eight times closer than the same object viewed with the naked eye. The last number is the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters (X40). The objective lens is the lens nearest the object being viewed. When choosing a binocular, magnification is critical. Lower magnification binoculars, 8X or less, allow for excellent light gathering, wider field of view and extremely steady images. Higher magnification binoculars, 10X or higher, bring objects much closer, but sacrifice some of the other features found in low magnification pairs. Field of View (FOV) When viewing through a binocular the visible width at a given distance is known as the "field of view." Field of view may be expressed in feet at 1,000 yards, meters at 1,000 meters, or degree of angle. One degree of angle equals 52.5 feet field-of view at 1,000 yards. An optic with 6.5 degrees of angle can be calculated by multiplying 52.5 feet (6.5 x 52.5 = 340 feet at 1,000 yards). TIP: Higher magnification means closer images but less light transmission and smaller field of view. Inside the OpticLens Construction Another more recent innovation in binocular lenses is the attention to ocular lens configuration. The arrangement and surface shape can effect clarity and definition, especially at the edges of the image. Brunton Epoch™ binoculars use "hybrid aspheric lens construction," a complex organization of lens surfaces that result in optimal image clarity over the entire image field and eliminate distortion found in standard aspheric lenses. Coatings To enhance light transmission through a binocular, manufacturers apply a microscopic film containing magnesium fluoride and other chemicals to the prism, lenses or both. This microscopic film diminishes the reflected or stray light inside a binocular allowing more light to be transmitted to the user's eye. Generally, the more applications of this coating, the greater the reduction in glare and reflections resulting in a brighter crisper image. The least expensive process is known as a "coated" optic where only the prism is coated. When an optic is "fully coated," all air-to-glass surfaces (lens and prisms) are coated once. The best coating available is "fully multi coated" where all air-to-glass surfaces are coated multiple times for the greatest amount of light transmission to the eye. TIP: More coatings mean brighter, crisper images in all light conditions. Exit Pupil & Eye Relief. Exit pupil  The amount of light exiting the binocular and entering the eye is determined by the "exit pupil." The exit pupil is calculated by dividing the diameter of the objective lens by the magnification. An 8x40 mm binocular has an exit pupil of 5 mm (40 mm ÷ 8 mm = 5 mm). If we were glassing for elk during the day, the pupil of a human eye would only open 2.5 mm, but increase to 5 mm at dusk to compensate for less available light. Binoculars with an exit pupil of 5 mm or higher maximize the amount of light entering the eye, thus increasing image brightness. An 8X24 mm binocular (3 mm exit pupil) will perform well under normal lighting conditions where a 7X42 mm binocular (6 mm exit pupil) provides enough light to see during twilight conditions and into the shadows of the forest canopy. Eye Relief In order for your binocular to produce a full image, the proper distance must be maintained from your eye to the ocular lens. This distance is known as "eye relief." If you wear eyeglasses (or sunglasses), the distance is increased because your eyes are 10-15 mm behind a glass barrier. If this additional distance is not accounted for "tunnel vision" will occur. To allow eyeglass wearers to have a full image, a binocular must incorporate "long eye relief" which is a distance of 15 mm or more. Binoculars with long eye relief feature adjustable eyecups which move the binocular to the correct distance from the eye for eyeglass compatibility. Recent innovations such as "multi-step long eye relief" allow the user to twist-up the eyecups to the desired distance from the eye. Brunton Epoch™ Binoculars feature a patented "locking multi-step eye relief system" which allows users to lock the eye cups in their specific position to ensure quicker spotting with less set-up of the binocular. TIP: Eyeglass wearers should seek a binocular with a minimum eye relief of 18 mm. Focus MechanismsFocus settings Focus mechanisms are critical to the performance and enjoyment of your binocular. A good focus wheel set-up will give you a range of closefocus to infinity in just one full turn (360 degrees) of the focus wheel. Most binoculars have a linear focusing gear, which typically gives the user either a slow focus or fast focus. Slow focus is good for examining things at close range (less than 30 feet). Fast focus is better for long range viewing (30 ft to infinity). Brunton's Variable Speed Focus™ allows the user a combination of fast and slow focus. Brunton has also set the bar for close focus. Typically, binoculars can not focus on objects closer than 5 ft away. The Epoch™ binoculars are able to focus at a mere 3 feet away, with precise focus adjustment, then transition out to infinity with a fast focusing gear. This innovative system has forever changed binocular performance standards. Back to Top Buy a RiflescopeMost firearms enthusiasts are using some kind of optical sighting device for their guns. While traditionally seen on rifles, scopes are becoming more popular for shotguns and handguns, as well.Scopes offer great precision and simplicity when shooting; here's how: When aiming through a scope or a red dot sight the complexity of lining up iron sights is completely eliminated by one third. Metallic sights require the alignment of the rear sight with the front sight and the target. By aiming and shooting with a scope, you only have to line up the crosshairs (reticule) with the target. When learning to shoot, it's much easier when assisted with a scope rather than using iron sights, alone. Rifle scopes also magnify which will make the target appear closer and clearer to see therefore enabling the shooter to place a more precise shot. Understand Your Need The average deer rifle used to wear a 3-9 scope. Three power is low enough, with enough light transmission and field of view for close shots in most applications. Nine power gives plenty of magnification for longer shots. Not only does higher magnification subtract from available light, the low end of a high magnification scope is much too high to take a very close shot. The scope on a whitetail rifle should almost always be kept at its lowest power. If that power happens to be five or six, many times the target appears out of focus through the scope. It's very important to know how low a scope goes, not how high. Low is more important in most cases. You can always shoot far with low power, or have time to turn the scope up, but the shooter will not be able to shoot close with high power because the field of view (FOV) is too small and light transmission is poor. The following diagram might help a bit. In a 3-9X40 scope, the 3 means three power, or 3X. This means that the image seen through the scope appears three times (3X) closer than it does to the naked eye. The 9 means nine power, or nine times (9X) closer than it appears to the naked eye. The forty (40) is the objective lens diameter in millimeters. This is a variable scope because the magnification of the scope can be varied between three and nine. This would be described as a "three to nine by forty" scope. Most scopes, especially in America, have main tubes that are one inch in diameter. That means that they use one inch rings. Some scopes have thirty millimeter main tubes. Those scopes will use thirty millimeter rings. There are several main types of bases that are used to connect the rings to the firearm. You will need to know what kind of base you have to find out the exact type and height of the one inch or thirty millimeter rings you will use for your specific scope. Light Transmission and Eye Relief Scopes don't gather light, although the term "light gathering ability" has become popular. Scopes transmit available light through the lenses to the eye, always losing a bit in the process. The best a scope can hope to offer in light transmission is about 98%, which only the very finest scopes can approach. Anything above 95% is considered great, and most scopes are around 90%, give or take a bit. The more magnification offered the less light that enters the eyepiece. The larger the objective lens, the more light will enter the eyepiece. Aged eyes may dilate to only about four millimeters. Younger eyes may open up to seven millimeters and even more. The small circle of light that appears in the eyepiece when a scope is held at arms length is called an exit pupil. Here's an interesting experiment to help explain it: Take a variable scope, put it at its lowest power, and hold it at arms length. See the circle of light in the ocular lens? That is the exit pupil. The diameter of it in millimeters is the exit pupil size. Now turn the scope up to its highest power and try it again. See how much smaller it gets? Imagine if you are using this scope during poor lighting conditions as common in hunting situations, like dawn or dusk. How small and dark will that exit pupil be? How well do you think you'll be able to see through that tiny circle of light? A formula for exit pupil is as follows: Divide the objective lens size in millimeters by the magnification. Example: if your 3-9X40 scope is set at 3X, 40 divided by 3 equals 13.3 millimeters, which is large enough for almost all low light applications. If your scope is set at 9X, 40 divided by 9 equals 4.44millimeters. The difference in available light from the larger exit pupil is significant. The larger the exit pupil, the less critical the position of your head in relation to the scope is. The distance that your eye must be to the ocular lens to get a full, clear picture is called eye relief. Lower powered scopes will have a larger range of distance available for a full view. Higher powered scopes are sometimes very critical in relation to the centering of your eye through the middle of the tube, and the distance your eye must be from the ocular lens. Sometimes there is only a half inch closer or further you may be to see the whole available view. The largest eye relief currently available is about five inches, and that is pretty rare. Four inches is still great, and most scopes are between three and three and a half inches. Higher recoiling guns including slug guns require lots of eye relief to prevent "scope eye" or the cut that some people get from the ocular lens of the scope coming back under recoil and cutting a semicircular gash above the shooter's eye. When mounting a scope, it should be at its highest power, and in a position that your head and neck are comfortable. Your head should be positioned on the stock in the position you will be shooting the most. For instance, if you sight in a gun while shooting off a bench rest, your head tends to sneak up on the stock a bit. If this gun is then used for snap shooting for deer in the woods, your eye relief might not be optimal, nor might your sight picture. Choosing a Magnification Range A scope in the 3-9 magnification range for a whitetail deer gun is pretty standard. In Western states for mule deer or antelope, a 4-12 or 4.5-14 is adequate, especially when the average shot is many times as long as it would be in the eastern whitetail woods. On the plains or in open country a higher scope power may be used, as well. For prairie dogs or long range target shooting, a 6-20X or 8-25X variable scope does not have too much power. Keep in mind though, on hot days, mirage and heat waves can make a high power scope almost unusable. Some shooters prefer fixed power scopes for their simplicity and fewer moving parts. On some rifles, some like nothing more than a fixed 4X. Squirrel rifles and many 22s are well equipped with this magnification. Some target shooters use fixed power scopes with high magnification such as 24, 36, or 40 power. A 2X scope is the most common for a handgun in a magnified scope. The more magnification, the more difficult it is to find the sight picture and target; and the more critical eye relief becomes. Shooting a handgun with a scope requires lots of practice, especially with anything over 2X. Higher powered variable scopes are generally for the experienced shooter and are used almost exclusively from a rested position. Shotgun scopes and muzzle loaders often have low power scopes for short range deer hunting with slugs or for hunting turkey. Again, a fixed 2X is fairly standard, but the trend is for variable power 2-7 scopes or even 3-9 scopes. Parallax is often factory set at 50, 60, or 75 yards. Shotgun scopes generally have maximum available eye relief to prevent "scope eye." Parallax Parallax may be difficult for some to understand. One way to help explain it is to picture the following: Most riflescopes in a medium-high variable power range, say 10X or slightly higher, which often don't have external parallax adjustments, are parallax corrected at either 100 or 150 yards. If you take one of these scopes that is set at 100 yards and put it in a vise on high power, with the crosshairs centered on a bullseye on a target at say, 25 yards, and move your head slightly off center to the left and right or up or down, you'll see the crosshairs move off the bullseye, even though the scope has not moved. The scope's "eye" is not focused at the proper distance. This will also happen if the target is set at a much further distance, say 300 yards. Another way to look at it is like this: Put a small mark from a pencil on a table, and put an inch or so of water in a clear drinking glass. Hold the glass an inch over the mark and move it around slightly in different directions. Looking down into the glass, watch the dot move in directions other than where it should be. External parallax adjustments, called adjustable objectives, are generally on scopes of more than 10 power; or on scopes that are used at close distances. Parallax adjustments are made at the objective lens with a rotating dial marked in incremental distances. Recently it has become popular to install parallax adjustment dials on the left side of the turret housing, which is much more convenient and user friendly. Airgun scopes sometimes have high power of 18 or more, even for 10 meter targets. A bad parallax setting will not only appear out of focus, but will wreak havoc on your group sizes, even though your shooting might be technically perfect. A clear sight picture doesn't necessarily guarantee that the view is parallax free. Adjustable objectives are generally not needed for hunting scopes under 10 or even a bit more power. The slightly different points of impact possible in hunting applications make the usefulness of this feature negligible. Airgun scopes and higher power scopes almost always have adjustable objectives. Rimfire scopes are often set at 60 yards for parallax. Shotgun scopes often at 75 yards. Riflescopes mostly at 100 or 150 yards. Objective Lens size and Tube Diameter In regards to objective lenses, 40 to 44mm is pretty standard on a medium variable rifle scope. Larger objective lenses will only transmit more useable light than smaller ones if they are set at their highest power in the dimmest conditions. The detriment is comfort and ease of eye alignment. With a properly mounted scope, a shooter should be able to close his/her eyes, shoulder their gun with a proper, repeatable stock weld (a stock weld is the firm but comfortable and repeatable position of your face on the gun stock), open their eyes and look directly through the center of your scope every time. Large objective lenses prevent this from happening because of the ring height required to keep such a large lens off the gun barrel. Some scopes require such high mounting that only a shooter's chin touches the stock. These scopes are also heavier, clumsier, unwieldy, unbalanced to carry, slower and less comfortable to shoot. Some of these scopes can weigh up to 3.5 lbs. Lenses and Coatings Most scopes are fogproof and waterproof with coated lenses. The coatings are expensive and vary in type, number, and quality. It is very possible to have a scope with single coated lenses to greatly outperform a scope with multicoated lenses. It all depends on the quality of the glass and the coatings. The following are accepted terms for coatings:
Coatings reduce glare and loss of light due to reflection. More coatings normally lead to better light transmission and sharper contrast. Field of View Field of view (FOV) is measured in feet at 100 yards. This is the amount of view a shooter see through their scope from right to left, at that distance. As magnification is increased, FOV goes down. As magnification is decreased, FOV goes up. For instance, a typical 3X variable scope might have a FOV at 100 yards of a bit over 30 feet, and at 9X, the FOV would be around 14 feet. A larger objective lens diameter will not change these figures. Red Dot Sights Red dot sights are normally 1X. That is to say, they have no magnification. One power (1X) is what our unaided eyes see. These red dot sights offer maximum available light transmission and wide fields of view. They are considered the fastest sights for target acquisition on any firearm. There is also unlimited eye relief on red dot sights. They can be mounted on rifles, shotguns, or even handguns. High grade red dot sights are parallax free, very strong and the battery life can be up to 50,000 hours. Inexpensive red dot sights, although often not waterproof or parallax free, are favorites on competition handguns for speed shooting and on shotguns for turkey and deer. Dot sizes differ from small to large and some have different reticules available with the turn of a dial. They are generally not for precision shooting because the size of the dot often takes up a good deal of the target at longer ranges. Tactical Military snipers use top quality fixed 10X scopes most often. These have mildot reticules that, in the hands of a practiced individual or team of two, often with calculators, and knowing the approximate size of their target, can estimate distance and hold-over or elevation clicks. Almost all mildot calculations must be made with scopes at their highest power. Fixed power scopes eliminate miscalculations by having a scope set at less than its highest power. The "mil" in mildot means milliradian, a unit of measurement for angles. Stateside law enforcement agencies most often use variable scopes of the highest quality and mildot type reticules are not often used. They clutter the field of view, and the longest shots almost ever taken are across a street, well under 100 yards. Range estimation is not required. Repeatability Good quality scopes are repeatable. This means if the windage is adjusted and elevation dials for point of impact are left at one setting, then moved around and for shooting in different places before being put back to the original place, the point of impact will be the same as it was when you started. Good quality scopes will also move the point of impact when you adjust your dials, without having to "settle in." That is to say, if you move your elevation dial up three inches, your point of impact should immediately reflect that. Sadly to say, more often than not, lesser quality scopes won't do this without shooting a few times first, to "settle in" the scope's internal adjustments. Some people "tap" on their scope with a coin or cartridge case to help this process. Turret Adjustments and Minute of Angle (MOA) Adjustments are made in "Minutes of Angle" (MOA). This is the measurement of a circle, and is 1.0472 at 100 yards. For all practical purposes it is called 1 inch at 100 yards. It is 2 inches at 200 yards, 5 inches at 500 yards, one half inch at 50 yards, etcetera. Scope adjustments are most often made in 1/4 inch increments at 100 yards. Each "click" of an elevation, or windage turret, will move the point of impact 1/4 inch at 100 yards. That same 1/4 inch click will move the point of impact 1/2 of an inch at 200 yards, or 1/8 inch at 50 yards. Some scopes have clicks that are 1/2 inch or even 1 inch. Some adjustment dials don't have clicks at all, just a friction type adjustment that is infinitely adjustable. If a bullet hole is four inches low at 100 yards and a scope has 1/4 minute clicks, the dial adjustment will need to be 16 clicks made in the direction of the ôup" arrow on the turret. The turrets are housed in the center of the scope tube in a protrusion called the turret housing. The turrets are sometimes made to be turned with a coin and sometimes are finger adjustable. Target turrets are tall, and the clicks are easily seen and felt. Target turrets are most suited to use where they won't get banged around or snagged on gear or brush. This is why hunting scopes do not have this feature and are low profile. The turret caps are often sealed with an "O" ring to help prevent moisture and debris entering the scope through its weakest parts. Bullet Drop Compensators (BDCs) Bullet drop compensators are turret adjustments matched to the caliber and bullet weight. Most bullet drop compensators are matched to common military calibers and weights such as 62 grain 5.56 (.223), and 168 grain 7.62 (.308). They work by having the shooter estimate the range to the target and by turning the turret to the corresponding distance marked on it. Ideally, the point of impact will be right on. However, most are substantially off. Even if a BDC was made for a particular load from a particular gun, it still wouldn't be perfect due to other variables like temperature, elevation, humidity, barrel cleanliness, lot number of ammo, etcetera. Minor changes make big differences. The further the distance, the less accurate a shot will be. Sighting In If a scope is correctly mounted, using a boresighter should get you close enough to print a bullet hole on a large target at 50 yards. No boresighter, even a laser boresighter, will sight in your gun for you. You must shoot the gun and adjust your scope accordingly to sight it in. Every gun is an individual. No two are alike, even if the serial numbers are consecutive. If a particular gun shoots a certain kind of ammunition well, there's absolutely no guarantee that an identical gun will like it as well. A scope is at its strongest when the windage and elevation adjustments are in the center of the available adjustment range. When you buy a scope, turn the dials all the way one way and then the other, counting how many full and partial turns, then split that number and find the middle. Start there for your adjustments. Many rear bases have windage adjustments. Use them. (Image credits: Bushnel - Scope schematics) Back to Top Buy a TentWith so many choices and options available, buying a tent can be a complex decision for any camper to make but it's impariative to pick the right one. If you buy a tent with all of the features available, the tent may be comfortable but could also be large and heavy-which is not necessarily the best choice for backpackers. If you buy a lighter tent, there may be less features and purhaps not a lot of protection from natures natural elements; when a tent is used under the wrong conditions it could take the fun out of any camping trip. The key is to find the right balance for your specific needs and you will have a tent that you can enjoy for years to come.Parts of a Tent:Body The body is the main bulk of the tent once it is deployed. Tent poles provide a frame which holds up the walls and forms the body. Rain fly A rain fly is a waterproof covering that goes on the outside of the tent. A good rain fly extends to the bottom of the tent in order to protect the entire tent from rain and water damage. Some even extend out from the tent to channel the water away from the tent body. A good rain fly can mean the difference between a wet and a dry experience. Vestibule A vestibule on a tent is very similar to a covered porch. This space acts as a buffer between the tent entrance and the snow and mud, allowing a person to remove soiled clothing without bringing the mess inside the tent. Vestibules also provide extra storage space and protection from the elements. Footprint A footprint is an extra piece of material that fits below the tent and protects its bottom from wear and tear. Many manufacturers make footprints that are fitted to a particular tent, but it is easy to make your own with plastic sheeting (usually available by the roll). Another option is to use a standard tarp; it will not look as professional as the first two options, but it will work just as well in dry conditions. Replacing a worn out footprint is much more cost-effective than replacing the entire tent. Note - In wet conditions, using a tarp or any footprint that extends out from the tent will enable the rain coming off of the roof to form puddles on the footprint's surface. Depending on the slope of the ground, these puddles can travel under the tent, allowing water to get inside. Stakes Tent stakes are placed in various loops or holes around the tent and pounded into the ground. This allows for the tent to remain taut and anchored to the ground. Guy lines Guy lines are tension cords that attach to the ground and keep the tent anchored in high winds. Some tent constructions require guy lines to keep the tent's shape. Vents Ventilation is a camping necessity. Most tents have mesh openings that allow the air to flow in and out of the tent while protecting against bugs and dust kicked up by the wind. This circulates the air and prevents condensation buildup inside the tent. Most mesh vents can be closed to help keep out wind and keep in heat. Doors Tents can have either a zippered door, or just a flap. While a flap is a functional door, it does not provide as many benefits as a zippered door. A zippered door will keep out rain, snow, wind, and insects as well as control the flow of air. When buying a tent, consider the number of doors you will need. If you need to save space and weight, then one door might be all you need. If you plan on having a large number of people staying in the tent, then two or three doors might be a better option. Poles There are two basic types of tent poles: rigid and collapsible. Rigid poles are typically stiff, tubular poles that slot one-into-another to form a frame over which the tent wall hangs. Collapsible tent poles are typically lightweight, flexible, and strong. Tent poles come in a number of different materials including: fiberglass, aluminum, aluminum alloys, and carbon fiber. Collapsible poles are generally tube shaped and can break down into small, 1-2 foot, sections. An elastic shock cord runs down the middle of the tubes in order to connect all of the pieces. Collapsible Tent Pole Materials:Fiberglass Solid fiberglass poles can be prone to breakage and deterioration and they are frequently found in cheaper tents. Fiberglass loses its flexibility in cold weather and can break with little applied pressure. The benefit of using fiberglass is that it is incredibly light-though they should not be used for anything more than casual camping. Fiberglass tubes Fiberglass tubes are collapsible fiberglass poles that are often reinforced with aluminum ends. They are held together with an elastic cord that helps to improve flexibility in colder weather. More reliable than solid fiberglass poles, fiberglass tubes are a popular, cost-effective style of tent pole. Aluminum Tent poles made of aluminum are stronger, more durable, and generally more reliable than fiberglass poles. Aluminum poles are just as light as fiberglass but they don't lose their flexibility in cold. Aluminum poles are more expensive than fiberglass, but they are a sound investment for anyone that plans to do extensive camping. Aluminum alloy Different metals can be added to aluminum in order to produce a stronger and lighter pole. Aluminum alloy poles are even more costly than standard aluminum poles but they are worth the cost if added strength, durability and light weight is desired. Carbon Fiber Carbon fiber poles are very strong and very durable, and they are often half the weight of aluminum poles. Carbon fiber poles are the best option for the serious camper, though they can sometimes be the most expensive. Tent Types: Single Wall Tents vs. Double Wall TentsDouble Wall Tents A double wall tent is essentially a tent within a tent. There are two layers called the tent body and the tent fly. The tent body is usually made of nylon and mesh and is supported by poles that attach to the body using external sleeves or clips. The tent fly (or rain fly) is then attached to the poles and staked to the ground. Double wall tents provide excellent ventilation because the tent body contains a lot of mesh. Compare to single wall tents: Pros 1. Warmer 2. Cheaper 3. More durable Cons 1. Harder to set up 2. Heavier 3. Bulkier Single Wall Tents A single wall tent consists of just a single layer of material between you and the elements. The material needs to be impermeable enough to keep rain from coming in while remaining breathable enough to let moisture out. Single wall tents are typically very light. Compare to double wall tents: Pros 1. Lighter 2. Less Bulky 3. Easier to set up Cons 1. More expensive (sometimes twice the price of their double wall counterparts) 2. Colder 3. Less Durable Seasonal TentsSummer Tents Summer tents often include a lot of mesh in the construction of the body. The rain fly on a summer tent is not as long as those on multi-season tents; this allows the tent to have more ventilation during the hot summer months. Summer tents usually use a two-pole construction in order to save weight. Three Season Tents Three season tents are designed to be very versatile. These tents usually include a full rain fly that can be removed in order to improve ventilation. Three-season tents typically use a three-pole construction because it provides extra durability during heavy winds. These tents are very popular due to their versatility; however, they are not designed for cold winter weather. Four Season or All Season Tents Four season tents are basically three season tents that are better equipped for winter use. They are usually constructed with four poles for excellent durability under heavy winds and snows. Four season tents are the most versatile tents available, but they are also costlier than three season tents-a fact which has limited their popularity. Tent ShapesRigid Frame Tents A rigid frame tent utilizes a sturdy frame made up of stiff, tubular poles that slot one-into-another to form a frame over which the tent material can hang. Guy lines typically hold the tent in place and keep it from blowing down rather than holding the tent up. Frame tents are usually large and roomy, perfect for lots of gear or people. This type of tent is used more for casual, family camping because they are heavier and bulkier than other types of tents. A-Frame Tents A-frame tents use two triangular shaped frame sections that are connected by a pole that runs down the center, or ridge, of the tent. This forms an elongated, triangle shaped tent that is fairly simple in construction. A-frame tents are becoming increasingly rare among hikers and campers due to the fact that dome tents are roomier than a-frame tents with comparable floor sizes. Dome Tents Dome tents are popular for hikers and campers alike. Like most tents, dome tents consist of a tent pole frame and a lightweight tent body. These tent poles are evenly spaced and curved in order to form the dome shape. Dome tents usually use between two and four poles as the frame. Because they are overlapping and evenly spaced, the tent poles change the geometry of the floor depending on the amount of poles used (two poles would create a square floor, three poles would make the floor hexagonal, and four poles would mean an octagonal floor). Using three or four poles increases the amount of usable space inside the tent, but it also makes the setup a little more complicated. Dome tents are lightweight and sturdy, and they provide a large amount of internal space while retaining structural integrity under inclement weather. Hoop Tents Tunnel, or hoop tents, use two to three hoops arranged in sequence as the frame. This creates a tunnel on which the tent body can hang. Hoop tents are popular among hikers due to their simple construction, large proportion of useable space inside and durability under high winds. The hoop construction allows the weight to be distributed among all of the hoops evenly, thus creating a very strong and stable structure. While these are the basic styles of tents available today, it is by no means a complete list. There are many variations and combinations of these styles available as well. It is important to select the tent that will be most beneficial to you. Capacity and Size It is always a good idea to buy a tent with a capacity greater than your anticipated need. If there will be two people using a tent, it is a good idea to buy a tent built for three or four people. This is important because even though you can generally fit two people in a two person tent, the size of the people and sleeping bags need to be considered. Other things might affect your decision when it comes to capacity and size including: the amount of gear you plan on having inside the tent, the amount of roll or tossing and turning space desired, the amount of vertical space required, and whether or not there will be pets inside the tent. It is always better to have too much space rather than not enough. Color The choice of tent color might seem insignificant, but it can be an important choice. More than just a cosmetic decision, tent color can dictate the temperature of the tent. A tent that is brightly colored will reflect more sunlight and create a cooler environment inside. A tent that is darker colored will absorb more sunlight during the day and keep the tent warmer. Also, bright colors will enable rescue workers to easily spot a tent in dense forests or snow should the need arise. Quick List of Things to Look For
Back to Top Zero a RifleScopeOnce you have the scope properly, and securely mounted onto the rifle you must zero the sights in order to hit the desired targets. In order to do this properly you will need a safe area to fire your weapon, a few paper or cardboard targets, and you may also want to use sandbags to rest the rifle on to prevent it from moving around. Also you will probably need anywhere from 10-30 rounds of ammunition to fire and adjust the sights properly.Once you have those things prepared, these are the steps to follow:
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